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Thursday 30 January 2014
Bint El Sudan
South London Style - Natty Bo
Singer, DJ, dancer, artist
I bumped into Natty Bo at the Electric Elephant Cafe, Elephant and Castle. Natty is the singer in several successful bands including Ska Cubano, Top Cats, and Natty Congeroo and the Flames of Rhythm. He's also resident DJ at Gaz's Rockin Blues in Soho, where he spins the choicest R&B and ska on 45 and 78rpm records. His latest purchase - 'It's the Gold' by Buddy and Ella Johnson on Decca 78rpm.
Natty's outfit
Cap - Donegal Tweed from classic-caps.co.uk
Dentistry - Gold tooth cap from Cuba
Hair - "I'm wearing Edge Control."
Glasses - "From Radio Days in Lower Marsh."
Coat - 1940s gabardine and alpaca pile storm coat
Bow tie - "From Spitalfields Market on a Thursday."
Jacket and trousers - "Both 1950s but can't remember where I got them."
Spats - Camden Stables
Shoes - Patent leather dance shoes from Sense charity shop
Tuesday 28 January 2014
Clarks Desert Boots
If you're not wearing a Clarks, then you're not saying nothing. Dennis Alcapone
I've worn Clarks Desert Boots all of my adult life. This design classic dates back to 1949 when Nathan Clark visited the Old Bazaar in Cairo. “I got the idea
from crepe-soled rough suede boots which officers in the Eighth Army
were in the habit of getting made in the Bazaar” said Clark. It's a bit of a myth that the Armed Forces used them in action. Today Clarks are quick to point out that they were an "off-duty" shoe, stating "the simple lines and conspicuous comfort were an instant hit and the first ever casual shoe was born."
Clarks shoes have long been a staple with trendsetters in Jamaica. In fact their popularity there is hard to overestimate. Since the birth of the rude boy in the 60s, through the classic roots reggae years, right up to the current Dancehall trends, Clarks has remained the label of choice. If you'd like to read more about it check out Al Fingers excellent book 'Clarks In Jamaica'.
Closer to home the Desert Boot has long been a staple within the Mod subculture. It's the footwear of choice in Quadrophenia, and by extension can often be seen on the feet of mod-revivalists like Paul Weller and the Gallagher brothers. In the mid-nineties during the height of the Britpop scene, the Desert Boot threatened to become the footwear of choice for the young and stylish in the UK, but (perhaps thankfully) Clarks were unable or unwilling to fully exploit this. And to some extent that remains the case today. I recently visited Hong Kong and could hardly move for seeing Clarks Originals stores. Yet there isn't a single one in the UK. Surely there's a call for opening one around Carnaby Street or in the East End?
Ultimately though, who cares? I'm happy to step inside the regular Clarks store, past all the school kids reluctantly getting their feet measured, and all the nice old couples shopping for comfy shoes. Clarks does it for me. One word of warning though, don't wear them in the wet or you will slip. The amount of times I've nearly broken my neck in crepe-soled shoes I don't care to count.
I've worn Clarks Desert Boots all of my adult life. This design classic dates back to 1949 when Nathan Clark visited the Old Bazaar in Cairo. “I got the idea
from crepe-soled rough suede boots which officers in the Eighth Army
were in the habit of getting made in the Bazaar” said Clark. It's a bit of a myth that the Armed Forces used them in action. Today Clarks are quick to point out that they were an "off-duty" shoe, stating "the simple lines and conspicuous comfort were an instant hit and the first ever casual shoe was born."Clarks shoes have long been a staple with trendsetters in Jamaica. In fact their popularity there is hard to overestimate. Since the birth of the rude boy in the 60s, through the classic roots reggae years, right up to the current Dancehall trends, Clarks has remained the label of choice. If you'd like to read more about it check out Al Fingers excellent book 'Clarks In Jamaica'. Ultimately though, who cares? I'm happy to step inside the regular Clarks store, past all the school kids reluctantly getting their feet measured, and all the nice old couples shopping for comfy shoes. Clarks does it for me. One word of warning though, don't wear them in the wet or you will slip. The amount of times I've nearly broken my neck in crepe-soled shoes I don't care to count.
Weleda After Shave Balm
As you get older you need to pay a little more attention to moisturising your face. When you shave you're actually scraping off a lot more skin than you'd imagine. Especially if you're a cut throat man like myself. Also, almost all shaving creams and soaps dry the skin out somewhat. The answer is a decent aftershave cream, lotion, or balm. I'd always recommend something with organic ingredients and paraben free. There's really no need for a shaving lotion to contain nasty preservatives.
Weleda's After Shave Balm combines organic products to good effect. Its combination of jojoba oil and chamomile soothe the skin whilst the organic myrrh extracts give it an aftershave-like zing. I usually splash on a little aftershave or bay rum just before applying lotion, but with Weleda's balm you really don't need to. The fragrance is very nicely balanced, and that's always the hardest thing to get right.
Weleda has a small list of products for men, all of which come recommended.
Weleda's After Shave Balm combines organic products to good effect. Its combination of jojoba oil and chamomile soothe the skin whilst the organic myrrh extracts give it an aftershave-like zing. I usually splash on a little aftershave or bay rum just before applying lotion, but with Weleda's balm you really don't need to. The fragrance is very nicely balanced, and that's always the hardest thing to get right.
Weleda has a small list of products for men, all of which come recommended.
Monday 27 January 2014
Sweet Georgia Brown discontinued?
Recently I've received quite a few emails from customers inquiring after Sweet Georgia Brown's water based 'purple' pomade. Unfortunately it's been discontinued and is no longer available. At least that's the rumour. As a company Sweet Georgia Brown are hard to pin down. It would help if their website worked: sweetgeorgiabrownpomade.com
In all honesty I've never been a massive fan of SGB purple. The cranberry scent is a little bit strong and sickly for my liking. Especially when compared to SGB red which might just be the best smelling pomade on the market. However the purple variety certainly has a fanbase who enjoy its silky finish and light to medium hold.
I've heard a further rumour that Sweet Goergia Brown are discontinuing all their products which would be a massive shame. If I had to guess I'd say that SGB are looking for backing from another pomade company and their future is up in the air. On their facebook page they manage to avoid any questions about discontinuing their products, which is a very strange thing to do, unless they are unsure of the situation themselves.
For now at least I'm continuing to supply the blue and red varieties at lostjohns.co.uk.
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| Sweet Georgia Brown purple - top left! |
In all honesty I've never been a massive fan of SGB purple. The cranberry scent is a little bit strong and sickly for my liking. Especially when compared to SGB red which might just be the best smelling pomade on the market. However the purple variety certainly has a fanbase who enjoy its silky finish and light to medium hold.
For now at least I'm continuing to supply the blue and red varieties at lostjohns.co.uk.
Fat and the Moon
I picked up some of these handmade toiletries from New York recently. Fat and the Moon is the brain child of Rachel Budde who runs an organic farm in California where many of the ingredients are sourced.
I particularly like the tooth soap. You put a few drops on your toothbrush using the pippet then the anise and cloves do the business. Cloves are particularly good if you have toothache by the way. But unlike pure clove oil, this stuff tastes good.
The deodorant cream is also great. It contains coconut oil, black pepper, and grapefruit amongst other natural products. Smells fresh, light and natural. The cream can get a little hard in the winter, so maybe pop it on the radiator for a minute before applying.
Other products include lip balm, face oil and the rather ominous sounding 'wound powder'.
As you can see the packaging is very handsome. Looks like it might be lino or screen printed which is always nice.
Currently you'll need to order it online, but no doubt these products will be available in UK shops soon. Visit: http://fatandthemoon.com/
I particularly like the tooth soap. You put a few drops on your toothbrush using the pippet then the anise and cloves do the business. Cloves are particularly good if you have toothache by the way. But unlike pure clove oil, this stuff tastes good.The deodorant cream is also great. It contains coconut oil, black pepper, and grapefruit amongst other natural products. Smells fresh, light and natural. The cream can get a little hard in the winter, so maybe pop it on the radiator for a minute before applying.Other products include lip balm, face oil and the rather ominous sounding 'wound powder'.
As you can see the packaging is very handsome. Looks like it might be lino or screen printed which is always nice.
Currently you'll need to order it online, but no doubt these products will be available in UK shops soon. Visit: http://fatandthemoon.com/
Fags without filters
Bought a few old fag packets at the junk shop. Complete with cigarette card of Gary Cooper.
The reason the packets are so small is people used to smoke without filters. The filter was invented and patented in 1925 by Boris Aivaz but wasn't mass produced until 1927.
Filtered or "tipped" cigarettes were seen as something of a novelty until the late 1950s when doctors began to warn of the dangers of tabacco. Today almost all cigarettes are filtered.
As a boy I used to collect cigarette cards. Gary Cooper would have been quite sought after I reckon.
The reason the packets are so small is people used to smoke without filters. The filter was invented and patented in 1925 by Boris Aivaz but wasn't mass produced until 1927. Filtered or "tipped" cigarettes were seen as something of a novelty until the late 1950s when doctors began to warn of the dangers of tabacco. Today almost all cigarettes are filtered.As a boy I used to collect cigarette cards. Gary Cooper would have been quite sought after I reckon.
Teenage
Last week I hotfooted it down to the British Film Institute to see Matt Wolf's excellent documentary 'Teenage' based upon the book by renowned critic Jon Savage. I'd previously read Savage's brilliant book on the formation of punk, 'England's Dreaming'. I'd recommend it, even if John Lydon wouldn't.
'Teenage' is, if anything, even more of a tour de force, mapping the birth and development of the teenager from the trailblazing soirées of England's 'bright young things' to the end of the Second World War. Savage argues that the first teenagers were a result of the First World War, long before the rock and roll/skiffle years that are generally held to be teenage year zero.
What's fascinating about Wolf's elegant documentary is the way it documents the period between the two Great Wars. This is as much a film about the rise of the Nazi party as it is about USand UK subcultures. There's some fascinating stuff about the Nazi's boy scout-inspired 'Hitler Youth' and those that opposed them in Germany - based around the swing movement. There's something rather wonderful about those rebellious German youths, who, much against the grain, wore Yankee and UK styles, listened to Duke Ellington and met in secret to dance. Needless to say many of them were killed by the Gestapo.
My girlfriend pointed out that in France many argue that Rimbaud was the first 'teenager' and that was in the 1860s. Poet, decadent, arms dealer. Sounds like a fairly typical teenager. But one man doesn't make a movement.
She also reminded me of the rather wonderful Zazous in France during the Second World War. Dandies and rebels, they dressed sharp and danced to swing during the height of the occupation. Sporting the star of David on their arms in protest against the Nazis. Needless to say, they were murdered too.
But back to 'Teenage'. I learned a good deal about the first jazz clubs in London and the experience of black American troops in Europe as opposed to their treatment at home. And a rather touching section about a black boy scout in America trying to deal with the bullying and racism of the times.
Teenage runs from Jan 27th to Feb 6th at the BFI. Visit them here for more details.
'Teenage' is, if anything, even more of a tour de force, mapping the birth and development of the teenager from the trailblazing soirées of England's 'bright young things' to the end of the Second World War. Savage argues that the first teenagers were a result of the First World War, long before the rock and roll/skiffle years that are generally held to be teenage year zero.What's fascinating about Wolf's elegant documentary is the way it documents the period between the two Great Wars. This is as much a film about the rise of the Nazi party as it is about USand UK subcultures. There's some fascinating stuff about the Nazi's boy scout-inspired 'Hitler Youth' and those that opposed them in Germany - based around the swing movement. There's something rather wonderful about those rebellious German youths, who, much against the grain, wore Yankee and UK styles, listened to Duke Ellington and met in secret to dance. Needless to say many of them were killed by the Gestapo.
My girlfriend pointed out that in France many argue that Rimbaud was the first 'teenager' and that was in the 1860s. Poet, decadent, arms dealer. Sounds like a fairly typical teenager. But one man doesn't make a movement.She also reminded me of the rather wonderful Zazous in France during the Second World War. Dandies and rebels, they dressed sharp and danced to swing during the height of the occupation. Sporting the star of David on their arms in protest against the Nazis. Needless to say, they were murdered too.But back to 'Teenage'. I learned a good deal about the first jazz clubs in London and the experience of black American troops in Europe as opposed to their treatment at home. And a rather touching section about a black boy scout in America trying to deal with the bullying and racism of the times.
Teenage runs from Jan 27th to Feb 6th at the BFI. Visit them here for more details.
Daimon Barber Pomade
I've had my own online hair and grooming shop for about three years now. I sell pomades, brushes, shaving gear etc and I do okay. Take a look at lostjohns.co.uk.
Most hair greases are still made in the USA, but recently there's been a boom in what you might loosely call 'retro mail grooming' in the UK. It's no longer a niche market catering to 1950s enthusiasts (which is sort of what I do) but has opened up to myriad styles and subcultures. In fact these days it's very hard to walk round the streets of London and not see someone who's quiffed, pomaded or generally looking smart and well groomed. But really there are so many pomades, waxes and creams out there and they all produce such different results that this is not a time to worry about us all looking the same in the hair department.
Daimon Barber Hair Pomade is formulated and produced in the UK by two London brothers, Daimon and Leo. Daimon is indeed a barber, who used to work for Murdock, and he quite clearly knows his stuff. Daimon Barber Pomade is a versatile, medium weighted grease made with bee propolis which "helps prevent hair loss and nourishes the scalp". The scent is subtle and rather like a traditional cologne. Not too sweet or sickly. It's worth pointing out that this is a water-based pomade (rather like Sweet Georgia Brown's purple variety) and as such is much easier to wash out of the hair. That also means it's less likely to remove the natural oils from the hair and dry it out.
Daimon and Leo have got the shine just right. Personally I don't always like the ultra slick look (particularly in the daytime), but this provides just enough shine without looking or feeling too greasy.
Purchase Daimon Barber Hair Pomade via lostjohns.co.uk here
Most hair greases are still made in the USA, but recently there's been a boom in what you might loosely call 'retro mail grooming' in the UK. It's no longer a niche market catering to 1950s enthusiasts (which is sort of what I do) but has opened up to myriad styles and subcultures. In fact these days it's very hard to walk round the streets of London and not see someone who's quiffed, pomaded or generally looking smart and well groomed. But really there are so many pomades, waxes and creams out there and they all produce such different results that this is not a time to worry about us all looking the same in the hair department.Daimon Barber Hair Pomade is formulated and produced in the UK by two London brothers, Daimon and Leo. Daimon is indeed a barber, who used to work for Murdock, and he quite clearly knows his stuff. Daimon Barber Pomade is a versatile, medium weighted grease made with bee propolis which "helps prevent hair loss and nourishes the scalp". The scent is subtle and rather like a traditional cologne. Not too sweet or sickly. It's worth pointing out that this is a water-based pomade (rather like Sweet Georgia Brown's purple variety) and as such is much easier to wash out of the hair. That also means it's less likely to remove the natural oils from the hair and dry it out.Daimon and Leo have got the shine just right. Personally I don't always like the ultra slick look (particularly in the daytime), but this provides just enough shine without looking or feeling too greasy.
Purchase Daimon Barber Hair Pomade via lostjohns.co.uk here
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